Subverting the Dominant Paradigm: Where Eagles Soar

Where Eagles Soar

From Landau, we traveled to one of the most recognizable sights in Germany. Every travel agency displays a poster of Neuschwanstein Castle, which is located in Bavaria. Most people recognize it as the model for the Disney World and Disneyland castle. In order to get to the castle one can choose from several routes. The most direct route, as well as the most scenic, is to take a narrow gauge train from Landau and travel through the mountains. The mountain route reveals some of the most scenic and historical places on the face of the earth. There are ruins of ancient castles and mountain keeps. Juliana and I are traveling near dusk and the dim light lends a strange mood to the trip. The narrow gauge train lacks selective seating. Everyone sits upon upholstered benches within the cars. While the seating is comfortable, refreshments are not available.

Most train stations in Germany, especially in the tourist attractions, are rather elaborate buildings, but not for the narrow gauge station at Fuessen. Fuessen is the name of the nearest town to Neuschwanstein Castle. Although entertaining, the trip through the mountains became tedious; we were wishing we had brought a lunch with us as the rest of the passengers had done. It was becoming dark and all I wanted was to find a good guesthouse and have sausage and a beer. While at the station, you cannot see the castle. I was wondering where we were going to eat and sleep that night. Juliana tells me that it is fine and she is taking care of everything. At least I can buy a warm cola at the station. Just by looking out the door, I can tell it is a long way to town. Juliana places a telephone call and tells the party on the other end that we are at the narrow gauge train station. Expecting a taxi at any time, I was growing impatient after 30 minutes. Juliana persuades me to relax because our ride will arrive shortly. Much to my utter amazement, it was not a taxicab, but a closed carriage with four white horses. We really do not look the part. We are dressed rather casual. We do a lot of hiking and are dressed in our hiking clothes. We are both wearing hiking boots. Juliana is wearing shorts with a silk shirt tied around her waist. I am wearing lightweight khaki cargo pants with a lightweight turtleneck shirt. We are not dressed for a coach and four elegant white horses. An invitation to eat at the castle awaits us in the carriage. I ask Juliana how she managed this and she explains that her troupe performs a benefit program at the castle every year, and she is good friends with the head caretaker. Well, that is wonderful, but where are we going to stay while we are here? Our plans are to be here for a couple of days. Besides touring Neuschwanstein, Juliana wants to show me some of the old castles in the area that are only reachable by a footpath.

At the castle, the head caretaker greets us. He is a stately gentleman in his mid to late sixties. He first throw outs a French greeting to Juliana. Juliana answers back in perfect French. This leaves me out of the conversation for a few moments (I took French in the 10^th grade, but retained little of it). He then introduces himself to me as Dr. Schelling (in perfect English) but adds, “Everyone here calls me Henry.” He is a rather interesting man, as I will find out later. My first worry is to get something to eat and find a place for the night. Dr. Schelling informs us that supper will be served as soon as we are ready. He tells us that we do not dress for supper. This information concerns me, but I quickly realize that supper would not be a formal affair. One problem is out of the way, how about a place to sleep? He solves that problem also. He asks us where we wish to sleep in the castle. Unbelievable! We can use any part of the castle except the parts that are on the regular tour. He said, “Of course we would not want an early tour to wake you in the morning.” Having not been to the castle myself, I could not say a thing. Juliana, knowing the castle quite well, says we would like to stay in the north tower. Dr. Schelling informs Juliana that the only accommodation in the tower is a portable water closet (WC) for the work crews so they do not have to climb the stairs every time they need to use the WC. Juliana says that is fine because we have camping equipment. I think, “Oh, great.”

The North tower is the tallest tower. It is over 200 feet high and overlooks a deep valley and the scenery is overwhelming. The climb is a good workout (no elevator). The scenery is indescribable. After washing up a bit, we go to supper. They eat this way every night. We sit at a long table with 32 other people. The full-time staff members who live at the castle serve the other dinners. There is a variety of meats including pork roast, steaks, fish, shrimp, and shellfish. Juliana encourages me to try the steak tar-tar. I am reluctant and explain why. She tells me that the Jagermeister will kill any tapeworms. It was not bad but I prefer my steak cooked medium well. It was a wonderful meal. After Supper, we retire to the Grotto to talk. I become rather suspicious that something is in the air. Dr. Schelling asks Juliana to meet him at 8:30 in the morning to discuss some arrangement he needs to make. I am to take the early morning tour by myself. I have forgotten the date (this will be important later). We retire to the tower and sleep soundly in our sleeping bags. It is just like camping with no heat, and it is cold at this altitude. In the morning, I see one of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. I hope I can offer justice by describing it in words.

At 5:30, I wake up realizing that Juliana is not in her sleeping bag. I get up and go to the door. What I am witnessing is truly stunning. Juliana is sitting in a chair in a thick white robe with her legs propped on the rail surrounding the tower’s balcony. There is a thick fog just below the tower and clear sky above. Soaring in the sky are three eagles. The eagles are soaring on the updrafts of the valley breezes. Juliana is tracing the pattern of one of the eagles with her hand. I am so captivated by what is happening that I just sit and watch without interrupting the process. Soon the scene becomes almost surreal. Instead of Juliana following the eagle with her hand, it seems as if the eagle is following Juliana’s motions. The motion of the eagle and her hand are so closely in sequence that it is frightening. I sit and watch this for over an hour. It was just so beautiful to watch. I hope you can imagine this scene. The eagle would sink into the fog, then rise rapidly to a great height about the tower, and slowly descend in a fluid circular path. There is just no way that words can describe the beauty I witnessed. After about an hour, Juliana, without looking in my direction, asked if I was ready for breakfast. There is no way she could have heard me, the floor is solid masonry and I am in stocking feet. She gets up, walks to her pack, and takes out a notebook of blank music staffs. She starts writing musical notes as fast as anyone could write. The whole time she is writing her hand is still following the motion of the eagle. I am duly impressed. After about 15 minutes, she hands me the paper and ask me how it sounds. I have to tell her I do not know how to read music. She reads it to me with her hand following the notes. I have to ask, “Did you just write that music score?” I do not know much about music, but I know that to me, the process was surreal.

I do not see Juliana all day except for meals. During supper, someone announces that there would be entertainment in the ballroom. This is on a Friday and they do this every Friday. People staying in the surrounding villages and hotel come to the castle for a two-hour concert. Dr. Schelling also says there will be a special performance tonight. In the ballroom, most of the castle workers do some type of entertainment. Finally, Dr. Shelling comes out, introduces Juliana, and says she will perform a ballet to a score she wrote. A fog machine produces a thick layer of white fog over the stage. Juliana appears on stage and performs the ballet of the eagles. Her movements and aerials are a repeat of the motions the eagles displayed in the morning. It is breathtaking. At the end of the performance every one stands up and applause for an encore. She performs some of her aerials for an encore. Juliana then returns to my table and asks me if I liked the performance. I have a hard time expressing how wonderful the performance made me feel. She then says, “It is you birthday present, did you like it?” The date was June 11, I had forgotten all about my birthday. I will never forget that birthday when I watched eagles dance.